Cambridge, Tingewick and Oxford

May 17

Today is a bit of a treat with a visit to Cambridge and Oxford. I’m going to pass a little judgment, which is – ‘Wow, the English just love a roundabout’. I don’t think I’ve ever driven through so many roundabouts; huge 4-lane motorways with 70mph/120kph limits rush straight into roundabout after roundabout, even roundabouts with traffic lights, and, at every one, all I can think of is, ‘there’s Big Ben kids’ from National Lampoon’s Vacation when they got stuck in a roundabout in London for about 12 hours going around and around. I’ve got a tip for road planners: they’re called overpasses.

On the topic of tips, I’ve got one for building planners also: it’s illegal, by building code, to have a power point in the bathroom, so women can’t dry their hair in the bathroom in the UK.  I assume this is so they don’t throw the hairdryer into the bath and die, BUT there is a 240v shaver point for men at every sink in every bathroom. This is going to be my lasting impact on the UK; I’m going to campaign to get power points allowed in bathrooms, at a safe distance from the bath, so girls can dry their hair!

Today I did lots of touristy things. Ed punted me along the river Cam (two Eds is better than one) and I saw the first bridge over the river Cam – Cam Bridge – get it?  I didn’t know that. It was a spectacular warm morning with blue sky and the river was empty; it was fun to see the other Ed so excited about what he was doing, as we both enjoyed the peace on the river and the weather as he told me all about this most amazing town, its history and buildings.

Driving to Oxford I stopped at The Royal Oak in Tingewick, the simplest of pubs, where there was a group of girls enjoying a 70th birthday lunch. The bar was being held up at 2pm by two retired farmers, and by the door, in her bed, was Star, the friendliest rescue Staffy I’ve ever met, who jumped up on my bench and sat with me wiggling with excitement. A choice of steak or chicken pie, no menu and great chat with the farmers.

Across to Oxford, another touristy treat, as I visited some of the colleges. What I noticed here was how easy it was to talk to people. University towns are full of interested and interesting people who don’t think it’s odd at all for a random person to just want to talk, very unlike the busy and suspicious people I tried to talk to in Maidstone.

Everything is in full bloom; it’s almost intoxicating on a warm afternoon walking down a narrow stone lane with wisteria, lilac and these trees covered in white flowers that look like cherry blossom but smell like orange blossom. I stopped for a moment smell the trees and met Robin, a composer from Yorkshire who was also admiring the incredible perfume of this lane, we walked and talked about his time as a student in Oxford and his life in Yorkshire.

I had dinner in a little bistro and, after dinner, met one of the chefs; he was from Spain. Joining him in the kitchen was a guy from Timor, a Dutch guy, a Spanish girl, and an Indian guy. He works at least 70 hours a week, every week from 9-5 with a break of an hour or so, and then on to midnight, and clears about £1,700 a month. I work that out to be less than £6 an hour after tax.  Then he pays £550 for his room, but doesn’t have many other expenses as he eats at work.  He misses Spain and is here to work hard and save money so he can open his own tapas restaurant in his home town. He thinks he needs about 2 years.

Southwold, Great Yarmouth, Dunmow

May 16

I drove to the picturesque Southwold, and sat with a retired man at the coffee shop on the pier. He told me of his interesting life, having at various points lived in Africa, Hong Kong, and now Southwold, a once poor fishing village that is, or has transformed into a newly-chic seaside resort town, while retaining its fisherman’s cottage charm. On his advice, I headed down to the harbour and met some of the fishermen. Greg, a fish filleter and former chef, moved to Southwold from east London about12 years ago. He showed me the catch from last night and explained fish rigor mortis to me. I had no idea that fresh dead fish are stiff and tough with rigor mortis and need 2-3 days to ‘relax’ before they can be filleted and are good for eating.  At 38 he’s the youngest in his trade in this area. Many of the fishing huts have closed over the last few years, as EU regulations and limits on catches have almost killed the local fishing industry, and more fish are now caught by big companies and imported. It seems a shame.

I headed to Great Yarmouth. It might be the time of day, but this seemed like mobility-scooter central as I walked through the market; lots of chip stalls, no fish, and young mums with little ones. I walked to the beautiful wide sandy beach and looked out over the North Sea to farms of wind turbines in front of me and stall after stall of amusements and junk food waiting for the crowds of summer behind me. As I wandered back to the car I saw two little girls, maybe three, drinking cans of Diet Coke…

Back to Cambridge to spend a night in a haunted bedroom where a 7-year-old child died, and the room was locked off for 200 years, or so I thought. I arrived in a very typical council housing estate in Dunmow, Essex, and the ‘castle’ was the inspiration for the most remarkable extreme makeover ever… what was once a very typical 3-bedroom semi-detached house in Essex is now a kitchen from 1940s New Orleans; an attic that is an abandoned spirit house from Cambodia; a sitting-room from a castle; the dead boy’s bedroom I’m sleeping in; and a Zen conservatory from Japan at the turn of the 20th Century. Despite Air B&B describing my room as being, “not for the faint-hearted, with unexplained odours and noises”, I’m really looking forward to sleeping here. I’m inspired by what people can dream up and how they can rally support and build a community to create something so incredible from something so average.

The UK is special in its people’s love of hobbies and amusements and it’s wonderful to see how far this can go.

Southend-on-Sea, Hadleigh, and Sudbury

May 15, 2016

Well, my main learning for today is to better plan my exit from London; just setting off to the ignorant suggestions of Mrs Sat Nav wasn’t such a good idea, but on the plus side I had the unexpected pleasure of driving over Tower Bridge.

I was excited to be heading to the seaside on such a beautiful day. It’s amazing how green everything is: fields of golden canola flowering and the roadside in full bloom with hawthorn bush. Spring seems to last forever here, gently flowering for weeks and weeks; in Australia, spring explodes into action, then it’s hot and windy and the cherry blossoms are smashed within a week, and then it’s summer and everything’s brown. Here spring gently creeps across the countryside; it’s long, slow, and glorious.

I arrived in Southend-on-Sea and am a little surprised to see its ‘award-winning beach’ is actually a tidal mudflat. But that hasn’t stopped thousands of enthusiastic families flocking down to enjoy the spring sun on Sunday and the many amusements on the foreshore. I drove quite a long way out past the amusements, through necessity, as every parking spot for miles was taken. As I walked back to find some lunch, I chatted with Mary; she had a baby in a pusher and was walking very slowly along the foreshore as young Isabelle, with no shoes on, was making snow angels in the warm sand, again and again and again: four steps; sand angel; up; four steps; another sand angel. As we walked I asked Mary about national identity. It’s struck me that you don’t find the sort of unified national identity in the UK that you see in, say, America at its strongest, or even in Australia. I asked her if she saw herself as more British or English. “British, because my family come from all over: Ireland, Scotland and England.”  We talked a bit about my trip and I was warned about the ‘midgies’ on the west coast of Scotland; I’ll remember to pack the Areoguard for that one. It turned out the two girls weren’t Mary’s, but rather her daughters – Mary was the very obliging and caring ‘granny/nanny’.

I had a nice lunch on the terrace at the Roslyn Hotel, overlooking the water, and talked to the beautiful Chantal and Charlotte, all dressed up, in the sun with a nice bottle of wine.  We talked about my project; their phone contracts; that they identify as English (“I’m only British when I fill out a form”); which boys on the terrace they liked the look of; and that they actually feel quite European, and think, “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”, but they’re not going to vote.

As I walked back to the car a saw guy looking very comfy in the sun in front of his beach hut: “my wife’s Nan bought it more than 30 years ago; since then they’ve dumped lots of sand; there used to be 6 steps, but now there’s only 2”. The new sand protects the wall and beach from the sea during storms. I also learnt how to ‘beach’ in Southend-on-Sea: the ideal conditions have the tide out during the morning and at midday the sun warms the mud and then the sea as it rolls in over the hot mud with the tide. “It’s as warm as a bath” to swim in the evening.

I had an unsuccessful attempt to use the gym at Kingfisher Leisure in Sudbury, met some lovely people by the river, and had a good walk. Then when heading back to my room I met a car hurtling along with the back open, being chased by two huge Weimaraners; after a brief roadside chat, it turned out they were staying at the same property and I followed them home for a glass of wine.

Holbecks House in Hadleigh is a wonderful rambling country house with big park-like gardens, and my room is the very same room HRH Prince Charles once slept in when visiting the Chief Commander.

Chichester London

April 27

Arundel Castle
Well, this was a stroke of luck: having not researched attractions as such, when I see something I like the look of or an interesting sign, I call in. A walk though the gardens, chapel and rooms of Arundel Castle was a highlight of this few days; the rooms that are open to the public are still occasionally used by the family who have about a sixth of the castle as their private residence.
Chichester
As I drove through Chichester I saw Cathedral Garage and couldn’t resist popping in. Simon had a finger deep into a clutch piston: “feel that edge there – it’s rough – I think it’s stuffed,” he told Ken. They were a little surprised to see me in their very old workshop, but happy to chat while they worked. Like most people, they don’t think they know enough about the EU vote to have an opinion, but, when encouraged, these guys want out: they think the red tape and immigration that comes with being in the EU makes it not worth it; they like the way Australia does its borders and think, “we should do it like that – they have proper control there.”
“It’s all lies anyway; they don’t tell us the truth; if we knew the truth we’d be out; it’s fixed as well you know; it doesn’t matter what we vote, we’ll be staying in – you watch.”
I asked them about the area, what it means to them, and why it’s important to the UK: “it’s not special: we were just born here, so that’s where we are. Maybe if we stay in the EU and things get worse we should come to Australia.” They then told me about various people they knew who had done just that.
I set off and came across a group of protesting young doctors on the roadside, enthusiastically supported by the honking traffic. I talked with Jenny, Juliet, Nya, and Alex.
“The issue is the current contract is an average week of 48 hours, a European standard; the new contract will move it to an average of 58 hours a week, BUT on-call hours are not counted, leave is not counted, overtime is not counted (we usually do 2 hours of free overtime a day), and teaching hours are not counted, so this average is ridiculously high, let alone the longer weeks that make 58 hours only an average.”
“Under the new contact you’ll only be paid guesstimate hours, guessed by the government, not actual hours worked, so we’re protesting to keep our pay the same, not even an increase.”
“All current contracts expire end of August, then we’ll be even more stretched as people are leaving or taking a year off to let this sort out, leaving fewer doctors to do the work.”
I fuelled the car in Midhurst; the guy working there thought it better to stay in the EU. He grew up in Germany and is of Pakistani descent. “People don’t realise how many people who live and work in the UK are part of the EU; what happens to all the workers from Europe is they vote out?”
Fernhurst
My lunch chat was a very lucky stop following my nose and a little sign to The Red Lion in Fernhurst, which meant a decent duck to get through the 5’6” door and no standing straight once inside. About halfway through lunch I started to chat with Ian, who was very comfortably installed next to the fire with Hamish the dog and his friend. They enjoyed telling me that the Duke of Norfolk is Catholic, yet is responsible for organising all the Royal events, such as weddings etc. “You know the Queen is the Head of the Church of England…”  Ian’s friend said that as a student of history he remembers what happened last time England signed a piece of paper – Chamberlain with Hitler – and then thought it was OK to turn its back on Europe.

Folkestone – Brighton

April 26

Hastings – “Slots of Fun”
I walked along the beachfront street with a retired mounted police officer; she was walking a dog as big as a horse, Sid, the very well-behaved Irish wolfhound.
“We’re better off out of the EU; things are getting more difficult; it’s better to control of things yourself.” (I’ve noticed there are a lot of dogs where I’ve been so far, a lot of very well-behaved dogs, and Sid was particularly well-disciplined.)
Down to the beach and among abandoned fishing boats and rusted-out bulldozers, I heard someone scaping the deck of one of the boats and I asked if I could come up. He’s retired, but working on his friends’ boat: “I don’t know why we don’t have a harbour; by rights we should – look at the condition of all these boats dragged up the beach.” I ask, “What, these still fish?” Apparently so: on the tide, they are shoved across the gravel and down into the ocean to fish and then dragged back up the beach by a winch when they are done; these rusted old bulldozers I thought had been dumped are in active service!

Bexhill
I visited the Bexhill giant Tesco (I’m still trying to work out what Omo for the washing machine is here – I think it’s Persil). Supermarkets everywhere are pretty similar now, although there was a lot of fish – what’s dyed fish anyway? It’s yellow and orange: who wants their fish dyed? And there are a lot of potato products. A nice touch having loos and a coffee shop actually in the supermarket, and it’s pretty snazzy that you can take a scanner and scan as you go for a fast checkout, although no-one seems to be using this in Bexhill.
Debbie from the Bexhill car park sausage stand was very considered on the EU issue: “I don’t think I know enough about both sides yet to have an opinion.” But, when pushed, she talked about the refugees and is worried that someone needs to help and, for the greater good she thinks she’d probably like the UK to stay and be part of the solution. She then wanted to talk about Parliament: “it’s embarrassing, them shouting and laughing and carrying on in Parliament: we’re working hard, and they should be sitting down and working things out properly, not wasting our money carrying on.” I quite like Debbie, who continued: ‘Average working people should be representing working people, people that know how to run a business; it’s too disconnected from us.” She then stops and has a worrying thought about average people representing her: “But then not all people are capable…” she says, and I heard a story about a poor woman, “clearly on benefits”, who had bought a sausage this morning and “wasn’t all there; you could just tell.” Then it started snowing, by the sea, five days before May.

Beachy Head
This place (the highest chalk cliffs, at over 530 feet) reminded me of Boaty McBoatface, a fun name chosen by the internet for a research vessel. A spectacular and beautiful walk until I came across all these little crosses and wreaths of flowers; sadly this spot attracts people who want to throw themselves off the edge of the world. May 2005: “Michael, I love you, son.” I was quite moved.

Canterbury

April 25

I parked at the Canterbury West station, walked up through the old town to a little pub and over lunch worked through my options on how to improve the engagement I’m getting and how to make cold approaches to people easier on me.
Walking back through the old town after looking through the magnificent Canterbury Cathedral it struck me just how antique towns like this are, and how very much the older parts of the UK remind me of Europe.
Walking back to the car, it’s a bit of a fight to stop and have another crack at talking to people on camera.
“Hi, I’m Ed Smith from Australia; can I ask you on camera about the EU vote?”
This worked much better: I got five good interviews, 1 in 3 people would talk to me, and I’m getting what I need: some insight as to what people from this part of the world think. I’ve got a lot of work to do to refine my approach but I’m learning and improving.
1. Don’t ask at shopping centres. (I think people think I’m going to try and sell them something!)
2. I don’t think the ‘research’ thing is as appealing to people as simply being interviewed about something topical.

Maidstone

April 25

Heavy traffic out of London; very kind lorry drivers letting me change lanes as the Sat Nav and I get to know each other and I learn the difference between turning and bearing, and what a mile and a quarter of a mile actually is. On the motorway there are no speed limit signs; I know it’s not Germany, but how fast am I allowed to drive? (70; thanks Fliss.)
Stopped at Maidstone Shell Deli2Go; Jacqui set me up with some bags of Easter eggs as incentives for five questions and she was my first interview. Phew: one down. I was strangely nervous.
Into Maidstone proper; parked; walked into the town centre.
“Excuse me, can I ask you five questions for a research project?”
No
I’m in a rush
No
Sorry – need to somewhere
Sorry – need to be somewhere at 12.00
No
Aww, I don’t think so
I don’t like chocolate
No – sorry
Nah, I’m alright
Sorry – I’m in a rush
It’s interesting how quickly your enthusiasm fades in the face of rejection. I walked around the rather grim Maidstone Mall and am now rethinking things at Café Nero.
I think I need a sign, so people can approach me and maybe offer £5 for five questions rather than a chocolate. It might be interesting to try both in each town and then we can have chocolate towns and money towns…

Ready for the first 3 days

April 24

Well here we are, ready to head off into the UK for my first trip out of London ever: a hundred towns and cities to visit selected from the most populous; the most economically important; the most culturally important; the most picturesque (and some random ones because I felt like it). Worcestershire, because that’s where the magic sauce comes from that makes a Bloody Mary so good. Mansfield, because it’s also the town at the foot of Mt Buller, our ski home resort. Peterborough, because its namesake on the great ocean road is where I spent my summers. Hereford, because they were the cows we had on our farm. All in all I’ll drive to the farthest corners of England, Wales, Scotland and Northern Ireland and share with you what I see.
In each town and city I’ll talk to five people about what their town means to them and why it’s significant to the UK, together with random questions about brands, the best bank, why, the freshest supermarket, the fastest broadband, the best mobile phone carrier, etc.
At the end of summer I’ll come back to London, ready to deploy my Chief Marketing Officer and leadership skills in a new country, with a unique set of insights from fresh eyes into what makes Great Britain and its people tick.
Wish me luck.
Ed